Bangalore

Numerous parks and tree-lined streets, shopping centres and tech parks, great weather, delicious dosas and good coffee: these are only some reasons to visit the cosmopolitan South Indian city of Bangalore – India’s most developed and fastest growing metropolis!

Bangalore (recently renamed 'Bengaluru') has long prided itself as a liberal and forward-thinking city which has welcomed people from all over India (and increasingly the world) who have come to take advantage of the city’s opportunities (and good climate!) and made it their home. With close to 7 million inhabitants, Bangalore is the fifth largest and third most populous city in India today.

In Bangalore you will find an eclectic mix of languages and (sub-)cultures, the modern and the traditional, the old and the new. This is a city where colonial bungalows and high-rise luxury apartment blocks line the same street, different languages and cultures share the same neighbourhood, and the modern ‘new India’ co-exists with its age-old traditions.

Unfortunately the city’s infrastructure is having a hard time keeping up with the frenzied pace of growth and changing cityscape. But Bangalore’s inhabitants are famous for their easygoing ‘please just adjust’ attitude which means that life goes merrily on despite the inadequate roads, traffic congestion and power cuts!

Location and how to get there

Bangalore is the capital of the South Indian state of Karnataka and is located in the centre of the Deccan Plateau at 919 metres above sea level, giving the city a pleasant climate all year round.

There are many direct international flights to major European and Asian destinations, including Frankfurt, Paris, London, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Dubai and Bangkok. The number of international links to the city will increase once the new international airport in Devanahalli, 30 kilometres north of the city centre, opens for operation. The first flight is due to take off from the new airport at the end of March 2008.
 
Work on a metro line is also in progress which will hopefully ease stress on the public transportation system and alleviate traffic congestion. Once complete, the network will cover 33 kilometres of the city on elevated and underground tracks serving 32 stations. But Bangaloreans and visitors alike will have to wait until 2011 to benefit!

Bangalore also has excellent road and rail links to other major Indian cities and is a good base from which to explore the towns and cities of South India.

Languages

Kannada is the official language of the state of Karnataka and is spoken by 45% of Bangalore’s population. English, Hindi, Tamil and Telegu are also widely spoken.

The People

Kannadigas, Anglo-Indians, Tamils, and techies and migrant labourers from other parts of India who have come to take advantage of job opportunities make up the city’s population of 6.8 million, which has doubled in the last 20 years!

79.37% of Bangalore's population is Hindu. There are also sizeable Muslim and Christian communities living in the city, as well as a small Jain population.

One city, multiple identities

Though officially renamed Bengaluru – meaning ‘city of boiled beans’! – in 2006, Bangalore has been known by its many ‘unofficial’ nicknames in its past and more recent history. The 'garden city', the 'pensioner’s paradise', the 'pub city', the 'party city', the 'cosmopolitan city', the 'air-conditioned city', 'science city', and more recently, the 'hi-tech city' or 'India’s Silicon Valley'. Each of these avatars reflect the city’s vibrant urban history and the changing times.

From its establishment as a British military garrison town to its growth as a modern IT capital, Bangalore was also an important textile hub in the 16th century and a milling town in the 19th century. The late 1940s saw the arrival of several heavy industries like Hindustan Aeronautics and Bharat Heavy Electricals.

In the 1960s, Bangalore become a science and technology capital with the establishment of defence and telecommunications installations, and scientific research centres like the Indian Institute of Science, Indian Space Research Organisation and National Aerospace Laboratories.

The mild weather (hence ‘air-conditioned city’!), numerous parks and green spaces of the ‘garden city’ made Bangalore a coveted retirement destination and earned the city the nickname of 'pensioners’ paradise'.

Texas Instruments was the first multinational company to set up office in 1958. Today, over 1200 Indian and international IT companies have offices in Bangalore, making it the most important IT centre in India. 


Famous Buildings and Monuments

Something old, something new, something borrowed, and something, um, red! When it comes to architecture, Bangalore has a little bit of everything! From Dravidian temples to gothic churches to colonial bungalows: these historical architectural styles co-exist with the modern technology parks, shopping centres and luxury high-rises which dot the city.

The 16th century Bull Temple, built in typical South Indian Dravidian style, is one of Bangalore’s oldest temples. It is named after the gigantic 15-foot high granite Bull statue which was carved from a single stone.

  The impressive Vidhana Soudha, which houses the legislature of the state of Karnataka, is an imposing granite building capped with a golden dome built in the 1950s in a neo-Dravidian style. Climb the grand staircase leading to the Assembly Chamber and admire the richly carved pillars, friezes and arches. Pass by on a Sunday evening and see the building lit up in all its magnificent glory.

Tipu Sultan’s Palace was built in the late 18th century as his summer retreat. Made mostly of wood, the elegant teak pillars, arches, beautiful balconies and brightly-painted carvings on the walls and ceiling of the two-storey palace are remnants of its former splendour.

The red-stucco neo-classical Government Museum is one of the oldest in India. It houses a fine collection of miniature paintings, sculptures, pottery and jewellery. The Venkatappa Art Gallery forms one wing of the museum featuring paintings in the Mysore style, ancient sculptures and leather puppets.

Places to Visit

Described as one of the most romantic gardens in India, the Lalbagh Botanical Gardens cover 96 hectares of green space. Take a walk among its ancient trees, tropical plants and flowers, lotus ponds, water fountains and famous greenhouse, which was modelled after London’s former Crystal Palace. Cubbon Park, a 300-acre oasis in the centre of the city, is also a pleasant place to spend an afternoon.

  Bangalore’s many places of worship reflect the city’s religious diversity. Visit the neo-classical St. Mark’s Cathedral built in 1812, the Jama Masjid mosque in the city market area, the Sri Guru Singh Sabha Gurudwara (Sikh Temple) by Ulsoor Lake, the Parsi temple in Cunningham Road (only open to Zoroastrians) and the huge ISKCON (Hare Krishna) temple complex in Rajajinagar.

Nrityagram is a unique and idyllic village, located 28 km from Bangalore, dedicated to Indian classical dance. Come in the mornings to witness the rigorous training dancers undergo in the gurukul tradition, where students live and study with their teachers.

Bannerghatta National Park, 25 km to the south of the city, is a 25,000 acre wildlife reserve where you can see elephants, lions, tigers, leopards, jackals, spotted deer and sloth bears among other wildlife.

Food and Restaurants

You can never go hungry in a city like Bangalore where there is a darshini or sagar on every street corner! These cheap local eateries offer typical South Indian vegetarian fare like idly, dosa and kharabath, served with sambar (a stew-like accompaniment made of lentils, vegetables and spices), and chutneys made of coconut, tomato, coriander or mint.

 Try the bisibelebath, a delicious local dish made of rice, lentils and vegetables, followed by a steaming cup of South Indian filter coffee and some famous Mysore pak for dessert. Popular chains like New Shanthi Sagar and Sukh Sagar will keep you coming back for more!

For a South Indian dining experience, head to the Mavalli Tiffin Rooms, or MTR, as the locals affectionately call it, close to the main gate of the Lalbagh Botanical Gardens. This unassuming but famous South Indian eatery is a veritable Bangalore institution which has been around since 1924.

 Once you step inside you’ll notice that the décor hasn’t changed since, but don’t let that and the waiting crowds put you off! MTR is famous for its delicious food and high standards of hygiene. Come at lunchtime and try a typical South Indian vegetarian thali meal.  Barefoot waiters dressed in lungis will direct you to your table and proceed to heap your steel plate with mouth-watering goodies. Tip: make sure to skip breakfast!

Some say Vidyarthi Bhavan in Gandhi Bazaar has the best dosas in town. This narrow and crowded eatery is always full, but worth the inevitable wait for its mouth-watering benne dosa.

Koshy’s is another favourite among locals and tourists alike. Avoid the refurbished air-conditioned section and head to the non-AC room which has retained its old-world charm of yesteryear. The table at the back is reserved for philosophical discussions among old-timers and newcomers. The menu features a variety of continental and North Indian dishes.

 If you can’t live without chicken tikka masala or aloo gobi, head to Tandoor for some delicious North Indian cuisine. Don’t miss the badami kheer for dessert! For something different, try the Sahib Sindh Sultan in the Forum Mall. This is a restaurant modelled on India’s first train which made its maiden journey in 1853.

Nightlife

Bangalore is the home to the ever-popular Kingfisher beer and the headquarters of United
Breweries. A drinker’s paradise? Possibly, but strict city bye-laws stop any serious partying at 11:30pm sharp!


Shopping

With close to a dozen existing malls, 13 big malls under construction, and 12 in the planning stages, Bangalore can also be dubbed the shopping city!

The Forum Mall in Koramangala, voted the best mall in the country, is one of the city’s most popular hangouts for shopaholics. During the weekends over 200,000 visitors throng the 100,000 square feet of shopping space dedicated to all the popular shops and brands as well as a huge food court and a 11-screen multiplex cinema. The centrally-located Garuda Mall is another popular shopping destination with many popular shops, a 5-screen cinema, and a food court with over 20 food counters, and five exclusive restaurants and bars.

The Eva Mall on Brigade Road was specially designed with women in mind: its shops offer branded women’s wear. The Bangalore Central department store is another popular shopping spot featuring popular brands, a noodle bar and café. Other newer malls include the Lido Mall off MG Road and Sigma mall on Cunningham Road. Both will also open cinemas shortly.

Gopalan Mall on Mysore Road is another popular mall with 35,000 visitors at weekends. If you suddenly remember at checkout that you forgot to pick up something, one of the team of trained skaters will be happy to fetch it for you pronto!


Major festivals

If you happen to be in Bangalore during the many religious festivals celebrated throughout the year, you will have the chance to experience the true spirit of the city. There always seems to be something to celebrate so don’t be surprised if you come across street processions with loud drumming, bright lights, fireworks, street dancing and much merry-making.

Some of the most important festivals include:

The 9-day long Karaga festival celebrated in March/April is Bangalore’s oldest festival and one of the most important. During this festival, the goddess Shakti is worshipped. She is symbolised by an earthen pot which is carried during a night procession, accompanied by drumming, singing and dancing, before being immersed in a lake.

The festival commemorating the birth of the elephant god Ganesh, has become a popular festival. Ganesh Chaturthi is celebrated for 10 days in August/September accompanied by loud music, frenzied dancing and colourful street processions. Huge statues of the god are erected in every neighbourhood before they are taken to a lake, river or pond and immersed on the final day.

Celebrated over a period of 10 days in October, Dasara is a celebration of the victory of good over evil. This festival commemorates the defeat of Ravana by Lord Rama, and also symbolises the triumph to the goddess Chamundeshwari over the demon Mahishasura. This is celebrated with great fanfare in Bangalore and the city of Mysore (140 km from Bangalore) where a music and dance performances are held and Mysore palace is lit up with festive lights.

Deepavalli (known as Divali in North India), the festival of light, is a major Hindu festival celebrated in October/November with great festive spirit all over India. This 5-day festival honours the goddess Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and prosperity. Lamps are lit each evening and fireworks are set off to symbolise the victory of light over darkness.


Compiled and written by Isabel Putinja

Photos courtesy of Stark Communications and Isabel Putinja